Mississippi Blues Trail Series – Church Street in Indianola, MS
The Southland Music Line continues our Mississippi Blues Trail Series at the marker recognizing Church Street, located in the heart of Indianola, Mississippi. Early in his career, B.B. King used to play the blues on Church Street. Later, he described this location as “like a good fishing hole.” This inspired the legacy of Church Street.
When is a street more than just an address? When that address serves as the hub and historical reference for so many activities in the 1950s and 60s, it becomes a legend unto itself. Church Street is just such a place. It created many community ties, notably in music and civil rights activities. As a bustling community during segregation times, Church Street provided a sanctuary for black community members after the toils of the week. Many people would escape to Church Street on Saturdays for food, dancing, relaxation, and meeting up with neighbors and friends.
Many notable blues musicians were born in Indianola. Though they occasionally played on Church Street, most left the area at a young age to pursue bigger dreams in Chicago, Memphis, and St. Louis. B.B. King and Albert King played on Church Street, with B. B. King noting that he got much praise from churchgoers when he played gospel music but better tips when he played the blues. Jones Night Spot on Church Street was once the premiere live music venue. Bluesmen like Robert Nighthawk and Robert Jr. Lockwood and some big bands such as Count Basie and Duke Ellington performed there. Jones Night Spot was relocated to Hanna Street, where it was renamed Club Ebony. B. B. King had a personal and professional connection to Club Ebony and appeared there until his death.
Top photo: Mississippi Blues Trail marker honoring historic Church Street in Indianola, MS (photo by Stephen Anderson); above photo: Church Street in the 1950s (courtesy of Johnny Jones)
Bobby Whalen, a current resident of Indianola, Mississippi, played with some of the great bluesmen when he was young. He created a band known as the Ladies Choice Band because many young ladies would request special music to dance to. Whalen is a folk artist who has spent much of his time on Church Street. He is a musician and painter specializing in portraits, murals, and hand-lettered signs. Whalen has devoted his life’s work to the civil rights movement, blues music, and local history. Bobby uses his painting to reflect each of these subjects by teaching art and creating murals. Many of his murals can be seen on display on Church Street on old, abandoned buildings, and current places of business.
Whalen has painted an array of murals depicting Delta life and blues legends, many on the walls of the old White Rose Café, currently known as the Motor Mouse Motorcycle Club. Across the street from the club is a vacant lot that hosts the annual Church Street Festival, a tribute to the legacy of this historic black neighborhood.
Church Street is no longer the busy center of activity it was in the 1950s and 1960s. A quieter atmosphere envelops the area. Though many buildings are closed and abandoned, a few remain, with sweeping murals by Whalen telling the story of days gone by on Church Street.
Mississippi Blues Trail marker (reverse side) recognizing Church Street in Indianola, MS (photo by Stephen Anderson)
Marker honoring B.B. King on the corner of 2nd and Chruch (photo by Stephen Anderson)
An article by Deborah Chatham with photos by Stephen “Andy” Anderson (page edited and designed by Johnny Cole.
Click Here for Other Articles in our Mississippi Blues Trail Series.
References:
● Msbluestrail.org
● Msbluestravelllers.com
● Mississippifolklife.org
● The Delta Review
